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Electric Floor Heating for Apartments: Palilulska Oaza

Project planning · Single-apartment electric floor heating

The Palilulska Oaza is a three-storey residential building whose drawings reached us as a set of individual unit plans — each flat broken into rooms with its own net area in square metres. This case is about the other end of the multi-family question: not heating a whole block in one design pass, but laying out apartment floor heating for one flat at a time, reading the rooms off a single unit plan. If you own one of these two-bedroom apartments and want warm floors under laminate without touching the shared slab, this is the thinking that applies.

Palilulska Oaza apartment building facade with balcony railings and wall lights
The Palilulska Oaza building as drawn for the project — a modest three-storey block whose individual flats are the real unit of design.

What the building gives you to work with

The project folder for Palilulska Oaza reads “STAMBENA ZGRADA” — Serbian for residential building — and what you actually get for heating design is a plan per apartment, not one big architectural drawing. Each unit plan marks the same five or six rooms: an open living–kitchen–dining area, one or two bedrooms, a bathroom, and a loggia or balcony. Every room carries its net floor area, which is exactly the number you need to size electric heating film.

That per-flat framing is worth stating plainly, because it changes how you plan. In a single-family house you can move heat between rooms; in a flat, each apartment is an isolated zone with its own party-floor slab, its own meter (or its own sub-meter), and usually a hard height limit at the door threshold. So the sensible design is: one independent electric film circuit per flat, sized from that flat’s own drawings, controlled by its own thermostat. That is what makes graphene heating film a good fit for apartment work — it is thin enough to avoid the screed pour a flat simply does not have room for.

Palilulska Oaza three-storey apartment building external view
The three-storey form of the building — the layout that determines how much each flat can heat without overloading a shared supply.
Palilulska Oaza building entrance with iron gate and landscaped garden
The entrance and garden side of the block — useful context for where the meter room and cable routes sit.

A worked example: heating apartment 14

Let us take one flat and do the sizing honestly. Apartment 14 is a two-bedroom unit (“dvosošoban stan”) on the drawings, and its net areas are printed room by room:

Room (as drawn)Net areaHeated areaSizing basis
1. Living + kitchen + dining31.62 m²~26 m²Open plan; film under laminate, one zone
2. Bedroom12.48 m²~10 m²Separate zone for a night/day programme
3. Bathroom4.81 m²~3 m²Small heated mat under tile, or film under membrane
4. Loggia3.06 m²not heatedUnconditioned; no film
Total net51.97 m²~39 m² heated 
Palilulska Oaza apartment 14 floor plan with room net areas for electric floor heating
Apartment 14’s plan as supplied — living–kitchen–dining 31.62 m², bedroom 12.48 m², bathroom 4.81 m², loggia 3.06 m².

Notice we do not heat the loggia and we trim the heated areas away from kitchen cabinets, the freestanding units and the party-wall edges. The room labelled “living + kitchen + dining” is really a single open rectangle, so it takes one continuous film run rather than several small ones — fewer busbar joins, one thermostat, and an even surface across the whole space. The bedroom is zoned separately so it can drop to a lower temperature at night. The bathroom is tiny but it is where a warm floor is most appreciated; because it is tiled, a thin electric heating mat bedded in the tile adhesive is often the cleaner choice than film there.

Sizing the wattage per room

Film is rated in watts per square metre, so the plan practically does the maths for you. Under laminate in a normally insulated flat, a working figure is roughly 130–160 W/m² of heated area. That puts the open living space near 26 m² × ~150 W/m² ≈ 3.9 kW, and the bedroom around 10 m² × 130 W/m² ≈ 1.3 kW — a total of about 5.2 kW for apartment 14 if both run at the same time. In practice they rarely peak together because each zone has its own thermostat schedule, which is precisely why electric underfloor heating for apartments works on a standard single-phase apartment supply.

How the other flats change the picture

Apartment 14 is not the only layout in the block, and the differences between flats are exactly what a per-unit approach handles well. The other first-floor plans give a useful spread:

UnitOpen living areaBedroomsBathOutdoor roomNet total
Apartment 633.67 m²1 × 10.58 m²4.59 m²Balkon 3.51 m²52.75 m²
Apartment 736.09 m²2 × (10.53, 9.02 m²)4.66 m²Lođa 3.41 m²64.19 m²
Apartment 927.95 m²2 × (12.89, 7.42 m²)4.39 m²Lođa 3.52 m²56.17 m²
Apartment 1431.62 m²1 × 12.48 m²4.81 m²Lođa 3.06 m²51.97 m²

Three useful things come out of comparing them. First, the open living area is the dominant load in every flat — it drives 60–70% of the heating, so it deserves the largest film run and the most careful layout. Second, the two-bedroom flats (7 and 9) need a second bedroom zone that the one-bedroom flats (6 and 14) skip, which changes the circuit count and the thermostat count. Third, the outdoor rooms — balconies and loggias — stay unheated on every plan, and that keeps the connected load realistic. The heated floor area across the four units works out to roughly 75–85% of the net area once bathrooms, circulation and cabinets are taken out.

Palilulska Oaza apartment 9 floor plan with rooms for apartment electric floor heating
Apartment 9 — a two-bedroom layout at 56.17 m² net, with its living–kitchen–dining at 27.95 m².
Palilulska Oaza apartment 6 floor plan for underfloor heating layout
Apartment 6 — the one-bedroom variant at 52.75 m², dominated by a single 33.67 m² living area.

Film or mat inside a flat

In an apartment the floor finish decides the product more than the room size does. Over laminate or engineered wood in the living area and bedrooms, graphene heating film is dry-laid directly under the boards — thin, quick and reversible, which matters in a rented or shared building where you cannot pour screed. In a tiled bathroom the film has to sit under waterproofing, and a thin heating mat bedded in the adhesive is usually simpler and more forgiving on a small irregular room. For a flat owner, the practical rule is: film across the dry, open rooms; a mat where tile and water are involved. Both come from the same underfloor heating range, so it is one supplier for the whole flat rather than a patchwork of brands.

Keeping the party floor honest

Two apartment-specific constraints shape the install. One is height: the film build-up is only a couple of millimetres, so the finished floor stays at the same level as the neighbours’ — no doorstep, no altered door swing. The other is sound and fire separation: film lies inside the flat’s own floor build-up and adds no structural bridging across the slab, so it does not compromise the fire rating or add a flanking path for noise. That is a real advantage over wet screed systems in a block where party-floor performance is regulated.

Palilulska Oaza apartment 7 floor plan with room sizes for electric heating
Apartment 7 — the largest unit at 64.19 m², with two bedrooms and a 36.09 m² living area.

Reading a room that is really two rooms

Plans sometimes label a combined kitchen–dining as part of a “living room” the way Palilulska Oaza does. When that happens we lay film over the whole open rectangle but keep the layout clear of the kitchen base units and the freestanding dining table footprint. The result is a single comfortable zone where the family actually lives, heated from one thermostat — and the cabinet line stays cool because film only goes where it can radiate to a usable floor.

Installing electric floor heating in one flat

1

Confirm the flat’s supply

Check the unit’s breaker and the apartment board before sizing anything — the film wattage you plan must sit under the flat’s own circuit limit, not the building’s.

2

Mark the heated zones

On the unit plan, mark the rooms to heat and cut out cabinets, the bath footprint and the loggia. This is the plan that becomes your film layout.

3

Lay the film, room by room

Unroll graphene film in neat rows per zone, keeping the 1–3 cm gap between sheets and at least 5 cm clear of walls and fixed furniture.

4

Run busbars and a sensor

Join the copper busbars cleanly, bring supply wires to each thermostat, and lay a floor sensor between two sheets in the centre of each heated room.

5

Finish and commission

Lay the floor finish, test continuity and resistance per zone, then set each wifi floor heating thermostat to its own schedule.

Control and what it costs to run

Because each flat is its own zone, control is where apartment heating is won or lost. A programmable or wifi thermostat per heated room lets the living area warm for the evening while the bedroom drops overnight and the bathroom comes on only when it is needed. On a flat this is not convenience — it is the difference between heating every hour you are out and heating only the hours you are home. With a thermostat range that supports per-room scheduling, a 39 m² heated floor in a flat like apartment 14 typically runs far fewer full-load hours than a boiler on the same duty, which is why owners report noticeably lower winter bills for a floor they actually feel warm.

Sizing the flat’s breaker properly. Add the film wattage of every zone you plan to run, size each zone’s circuit, then check the total against the flat’s main breaker and the building’s shared supply. Never size from the building total — always from the unit. We prepare this wattage summary from your unit plan so the numbers are checked before you buy film.

What this approach gives the owner

Stepping back, the per-apartment method is really about keeping every decision reversible and every cost traceable to one flat. Because the film sits dry under the floor finish, a later change — adding a bedroom zone, shifting a thermostat, or lifting a section to reach a joint — does not involve breaking into a shared slab or disturbing the neighbours. Because each zone has its own thermostat and can be metered from the unit’s own board, the running cost stays in the flat that benefits from it, which matters when residents pay their own bills. And because the heated area is read straight off the printed net areas on the unit plan, there is no guesswork in the quantity list — the film metres, the mat for the bathroom and the number of thermostats follow directly from the rooms you can see on the drawing. That is the whole point of planning an apartment from its own plan rather than treating every flat in the building as identical.

Apartment heating questions

Can I heat just one room of my flat?
Yes — film is sized per room, so you can start with the living area and add the bedroom later. Each zone is an independent circuit with its own thermostat, so partial installs work cleanly.
Does the film add height at the door?
Barely — a couple of millimetres under the floor finish. Door clearances usually stay unchanged, which is a strong point for flats where you cannot easily adjust the threshold.
Can one thermostat handle the whole flat?
Only if you accept one schedule for every room. For comfort and running cost, give the open living area and the bedroom(s) their own thermostats so each runs its own programme.
How does this compare with a building-wide wet system?
A central wet system suits a new build with screed and a shared boiler. For an existing flat you cannot pour screed into, thin electric film is lower-impact, independently controlled and easier to meter per unit.
Do I need permission for this in a block?
Treat it like any electrical alteration — confirm the flat’s own circuit capacity and follow local building rules for party floors. Because film adds no structural change, it is usually a simple electrical job rather than a structural one.
Heating one apartment from its floor plan?

Send the unit plan — or even a photo of it — and we will mark the heated zones, give a film-versus-mat split and a wattage summary.

See the underfloor heating range Zoning a whole building

The floor plans and renderings shown are the building’s own project documentation, used here to explain the per-apartment heating method. Room areas are read from the original drawings. Final heating design and electrical installation must be done by a qualified installer to local codes.